La Tela di Carlotta
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Christmas in Gothenburg with toddlers

Dec 1, 2018

Thank you to Erik from the Gothenburg tourist office who provided us with City Cards for the whole family and adviced us on our planning (it was him who suggested we’d spend Christmas Day at Universeum, which was a great idea!), and to Charlotte from Universeum who provided us with tickets.

I won’t write restaurant recommendations in this post because eating out with a baby and a toddler is a hit and miss—too many stars have to align for it to be an enjoyable experience. But I’ll say that most restaurants in Gothenburg are kid-friendly, offering high chairs and changing tables in the bathrooms.

This is my personal kid-friendly (parent-friendly) travel guide to Gothenburg.


First things first. If Gothenburg weren’t the kid-friendly city it is, full of fun indoors activities and amazing places for babies and toddlers, this would have been a disastrous trip.

On the second day, BOTH Oliver and Emily got ill: Oliver, being a super little dude, ran a 39,5 fever for a whole night which swept away every bit of virus in his body, and then he was almost like new. Poor Emily, on the other hand, was miserable for the whole week, constant temperature and a bad congestion. To top it off, on the third day I got a mastitis which gave me high temperature and lots of pain.

BUT. Luckily for us, Gothenburg is such an easy city to visit with small kids—even in the winter, when cold and rain make it hard to stay outside, and 3pm sunset makes days very short.

Airport -> City center: short and painless bus ride

First of all, Gothenburg airport is gorgeous and absolutely unique, with gates that look like fancy hotel reception desks and wide and light spaces.

This is where we had the first kid-friendly surprise, a small playground at the luggage claim area, where we spent about half an hour after a 4.5 hours journey. So needed!

The travel from the airport was about half an hour long on bus X which came quite quickly and right in front of the airport exit doors.

Have a plan for Christmas days in Gothenburg!

Christmas is a hard time of the year for us as we’re not religious, we don’t want to give in consumerism and we raise our kids Montessori: you can read how we do it in this post. As part of our idea of having an alternative Christmas, in 2017 we decided to travel to Gothenburg.

I’ll admit to it: I was expecting the city to be more Christmassy, to see lights everywhere and maybe even have some snow (your know, the whole Scandinavian Country deal!). This is where the amusement park Liseberg came to the rescue with its gorgeous Christmas decorations, snowy trees, snowmen in the water, Christmas markets and ice show.

Everything is closed on the 23rd of December!

While we expected everything to be closed on the 24th and 25th, and had planned for it accordingly, we were surprised to find out that also on the 23rd everything (kid centres and museums) were closed, which made that a hard day (not having a plan is a big no-no with small children in a big city) and the days after Christmas just a tad busier trying to fit everything else that we wanted to see before leaving.

Sauna and hotel life on Christmas Eve

*Note: we stayed at Hotel Vasa. Good location for transport, walking distance to the centre and the Haga district, and friendly neighborhood. Oh, and waffles at any time of the day! Only inconvenience: a ramp of stairs to get to the elevator (in case you, like us, have a pram).

On Christmas Eve, we had decided to stay around the hotel: we took a walk in the nice district of Haga despite the light rain and most beautiful kids shops being closed, and had a delicious Caesar Salad and their famously huge Hagabulle (cinnamon buns) at Cafe Husaren. (We wanted to have lunch at En Deli but it was closed, so we went back there another day, and liked it).

In the afternoon we had a family sauna back at our hotel (which I loved and yes, small kids can take it too!) followed by complimentary tea and waffles (which also served us as dinner! ;-), and in the evening we watched the whole Blue Planet 2 with Oliver on TV while Emily was sleeping on me. This was among the nicest memories of our trip: Oliver was so into it, commenting away and fascinated by it (not having a TV at home definitely paid off!).

Christmas Day at Universeum

We decided to spend Christmas Day at Universeum which turned out to be a great idea: we were there early so it wasn’t crowded, Oliver had an amazing time (he said “look” at least 150 million times), Emily was entertained in the carrier and later on walking around in the activity room where also Alex and I challenged body and mind with some (surprisingly tough) exercises and activities.

We had lunch at Roberta’s restaurant inside the centre, which offers a big kid menu (featuring meatballs, burger, vegetarian burger, fish ‘n chips, hot dog, and pancakes!) and many high chairs. It was a perfect alternative Christmas!

Kid-friendly bonus: Universeum offers Babybjorn carriers if you happen not to have one. Also, if you prefer to bring your own meal there are picnic tables at level 0 and 2.

Must do with babies and toddlers in Gothenburg

Although you’ll find an amazing list of activities to do with kids and toddlers on the nicely curated website of the city, I feel like not all the activities listed there are a good fit for both a baby and a toddler.

So here’s a list of what both Oliver (then 2.5) and Emily (then almost 1) both enjoyed, and you’ll be surprised to see that most include the words “museum” and “culture”:

  • Alfie’s Culture Centre: this was great and we actually went back. It’s slightly expensive in my opinion, but the value is great: there’s two floors of amazing things to explore and play with, a mini cinema for the little ones, a mini labyrinth, a funny helicopter that goes up and down (the kids’ favorite), toys, books, and healthy snacks and even nappies in the bathroom. I was honestly so impressed!
  • The Museum of Natural History: this is a MUST with small kids who are naturally into animals. The museum is breathtaking (and huge!) and the hot soups at the restaurant absolutely delicious: you can have easily spend there a whole day!
  • The Museum of World Culture: the whole building is stunning and worth a visit on its own. The area Together is so interactive and beautiful that Alex and I couldn’t stop taking pictures (or climbing into places ourselves). Ideally, visit it on the same day as the neighboring amusement park Liseberg (which is what we did).
  • Liseberg Christmas market: Liseberg screams Christmas, and I personally loved it! Make sure you catch the show on ice (different every year) and go take your seats at least 30 minutes before it starts: Oliver watched the whole show without ever blinking! We didn’t go on the rides (they’re not included in the ticket anyway), we only really wanted to enjoy the Christmas atmosphere.
  • Sauna: you can’t visit a Scandinavian country without taking a sauna. It’s perfectly fine for young kids as long as they seem fine: Emily had her first sauna in Helsinki when she was just 7 months, and slept like a baby afterwards.
  • Stadsbibliotek (City Library): we couldn’t make it there, but I overheard some moms talking about a really large children's section and area for babies to play. Maybe worth a visit on a cold, dark afternoon.
  • Playgrounds: it’s cold, yes, but playing outdoors is so important for young kids’ happiness and their parents’ mental health. And as Alex always says: there’s no bad weather, just bad clothes.

Now, let’s be honest here: this wasn’t a 100% successful trip for the Bendikens, but all the kid-friendly places that Gothenburg has to offers made our stay easier and more enjoyable despite colds, tantrums and mastitis. I’d definitely give Gothenburg a thumb-up as a city to visit with young kids!

Tell me what you think

Did you like it? Do you agree or disagree? I'd love to hear from you.

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I write mainly about Montessori, parenthood, and multilingualism. Here are some recent posts.

Mums, dads & kids
We don't know how to be parents, we learn it everyday as we go. This is my way of motherhood, the small victories and the bitter defeats, my inconvenient truths and the endless life lessons. And also all the baby products and toys we love the most.
How to leave the playground without power struggles
This is life
Audiobooks of real-life stories for kids
Let's not project our insecurities onto our kids
Question authorities
Parents need to be constructively selfish
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When you think your marriage is over after kids.
Alex
We forgot our 10-year wedding anniversary!
Montessori
One day a few years ago my husband came home and said, "Why don't we put a mattress on the floor in the baby room? It'd be much more natural". "Never" was my reply. That's how our Montessori journey started. Since then we've been living, breathing and applying the philosophy at home day in and day out, starting from ourselves. Because educating children starts from the parents.
Montessori express: change the sentences into positive
Montessori express: everything is NOT fine
My baby cries desperately in the car (15 months)
Take care of the mother behind the woman
Montessori express: ask instead of correcting
Montessori express: describe instead of criticising
An example of how I practice empathy with my kids
How I show empathy to my children
Happy 4th birthday, Emily
Montessori New Year's tradition
Living sustainably
Living sustainably for me doesn’t only mean to have a more eco-friendly lifestyle. It means to make decisions that are sustainable for our planet, the people on it, but also for our life, our lifestyle, and our happiness. It means to take any daily chance to evolve and be happier, healthier, kinder, more responsible and more caring human beings—the only sustainable way for a meaningful future.
Face yoga is an act of self love
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A personal note on happiness
A personal note on social media
A change of life always widens your horizons
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Travel

We sold everything to travel the world for two years. We're currently in New Zealand.

Books

In 2020 I wrote 4 books for the Italian collection “Gioca and Impara con il metodo Montessori” curated by Grazia Honegger Fresco. The collection is a project by Il Corriere della Sera and La Gazzetta dello Sport.

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I dreamed of the name La Tela di Carlotta. One morning I woke up and in my dreams I had created a blog named just like the American novel (Charlotte's Web). Many years and endless ups and downs later, this web of thoughts and stories is my work. It took me a long time to understand what kind of online presence I wanted and today I know: I'm transparent, I show real life, I don't advertise, I only recommend sustainable brands (and not only because they pay me) and I believe in the value of my blog and my courses—because if we don't believe in the value of our work, no one will believe in it for us.
Carlotta
Carlotta dreaming of La Tela
I know! I don't want it to be over yet either.